Saved by Soup

January 4, 1999
There isn't a single soup in Barrett's collection that doesn't sound delectable--and this is quite impressive considering none of her recipes contains more than three grams of fat. Looking for a way to lighten up family meals, Barrett (coauthor of Risotto) discovered that soup was not only fun to make but, with a few tricks, could be conveniently dietetic. Her homemade, de-fatted stocks--chicken, fish and roasted vegetable--provide the backbone for everything from Vidalia Onion Soup to Pasta e Fagioli. Substituting buttermilk for cream doesn't detract from the richness of New England Lobster and Corn Chowder, and doesn't add the fat, and pureed vegetables make Leek and Celery Root Soup with Fresh Crabmeat and Dill far more luxurious than its 2.9 grams of fat would indicate. Nutritional analyses follow each recipe; it's encouraging to note that cooks need not cut out potatoes, pasta, legumes, rice or cheese to achieve dietetic acceptability. After an introduction to making stocks, the book moves on to recipes that incorporate beans, seafood and chicken, to assorted ethnic and seasonal soups, finishing with refreshing fruit combinations (Honeydew and Lime Soup, for example). These diet-friendly selections should be just the ticket for post-holiday calorie counters. Photos not seen by PW.

December 1, 1998
Barbara Kafka's Soup (LJ 10/15/98) is the soup book of the season, and James Peterson's Splendid Soups (LJ 9/15/93) has become a classic in the field, but this less ambitious collection of low-fat recipes is appealing in its own right. Barrett's (Pasta Verde, LJ 6/15/95) love of Italian food is evident in these recipes, too, but there are also many from other cuisines as well, including Roasted Beet Borscht, Miami Black Bean Soup, and Lemongrass Broth with Shrimp and Cilantro. Not just for the diet shelf, this attractive book, with many full-page color photographs, is recommended for most collections.